This morning I finished reading David Foster Wallace’s essay, “Consider the Lobster,” which appears in his anthology of the same name. (The piece originally appeared in Gourmet Magazine in 2004 and is online.) Wallace was assigned by Gourmet Magazine to attend the Maine Lobster Festival, and what he wound up writing was an exploration of the morality of eating living creatures.
In the case of lobsters, they are literally living right up until you toss them into a big pot of boiling water:
The basic scenario is that we come in from the store and make our little preparations like getting the kettle filled and boiling, and then we lift the lobsters out of the bag or whatever retail container they came in … whereupon some uncomfortable things start to happen. However stuporous the lobster is from the trip home, for instance, it tends to come alarmingly to life when placed in boiling water. If you’re tilting it from a container into the steaming kettle, the lobster will sometimes try to cling to the container’s sides or even to hook its claws over the kettle’s rim like a person trying to keep from going over the edge of a roof. And worse is when the lobster is fully immersed. Even if you cover the kettle and turn away, you can usually hear the cover rattling and clanking as the lobster tries to push it off. Or the creature’s claws scraping the sides of the kettle as it thrashes around. The lobster, in other words, behaves very much as you or I would behave if we were plunged into boiling water (with the obvious exception of screaming). A blunter way to say this is that the lobster acts as if it’s in terrible pain…
Therefore, as is not the case with cows or chicken, the chef can’t avoid the fact that the food he’s cooking used to be a living being.
I made a sandwich this morning to take to work for lunch. After I finished reading the article later on my morning commute, I thought about that sandwich: in between the bagel halves, along with the piece of munster cheese, were several perfect, sterile, oval-shaped slices of turkey meat. They had been wrapped in plastic when I bought them. They couldn’t have looked less like food. They looked like they’d rolled off a factory conveyor belt — which of course they had. And when I’d taken the plastic-wrapped package of sliced turkey out of the refrigerated case and put it in my shopping basket, it hadn’t even entered my mind that a big bird had been tightly crammed into an enclosure with hoards of other big birds, probably scared to death, or at least very unsettled (chicken producers remove the chickens’ beaks from their bodies so that the chickens don’t peck each other to death from the stress of overcrowding), and sliced pieces of that bird were now in my shopping basket.
I wound up going out to lunch with a friend instead (he’d just come back from vacation and we decided to catch up), and I got a veggie burger. I never get veggie burgers. But I got one today. This was partly because my friend is a vegetarian (well, a pescatarian) and he ordered one, but also, I just felt like not eating an animal.
It’s possible that the world would be better off if we were all vegetarians. For one thing, crops take up much less acreage than does the ground required for livestock to graze. For another, we’d have less heart disease; we’d be collectively physically healthier as a society. And for another, we wouldn’t have to deal with the messy question of eating animals.
And yet,we human beings have a natural taste for animal flesh. Hamburgers taste good! And animals are fantastic sources of protein. And didn’t the Native Americans of the Plains — those indigenous peoples we idolize as having lived, unlike our selfish selves, in harmony with the Earth — eat buffalo meat?
I don’t really have a big moral problem with eating animals. After all, we’re bigger than they are (usually), and we’re the owners of this planet (except not really), and we as a race do wonderful things (except not always). As you can tell from the parentheticals, I have some doubts. And I wouldn’t be particularly happy if some giant aliens came along and decided to stick us humans into overcrowded pens, pull out all our teeth, fatten us up, and then slaughter and roast us and wrap perfect, oval-shaped human slices in vacuum-sealed plastic.
And yet, after finishing this entry, because I didn’t eat my turkey sandwich for lunch I’m going to eat it for dinner.
We’re complicated living creatures, we humans.